lördag 21 mars 2009

Adrenalin rushes

So i know ive been absent with stories of legendary proportions, but it has been hard getting the hold of a computer or telephone reception in the last couple of days as ive just spent five days surfing along the coast up to Byron Bay. For those who didnt know, surfing is something which i very much like after having tried it for the first time in Hawaii some distant ammount of years ago, and now getting to do it on some really amazing waves and about 8 hours a day i must say i like it even more! It might sound all but very much like a cliche but ones you start riding waves, you can hardly stop.
Now you might wonder why i have not had a computer or any cellphone reception, i can only tell you that the places we went there wasnt really much of that nor any other form of high technology. The first couple of nights we spent at a beach house in crescenthead, a very remote location with a population of 1000 ppl or so. So as you can imagine, there wasnt really much to do around there except surf on a deserted beach with the third best wave in AUS according to our surf leader morgan who is ranked 90 something the world.
The second place we spent the last two night, was called spot-X, and is propably one of the most known surf spots in all of australia, and from the ammount of good waves people managed to catch there, there is no doubt as to why so many people go there to surf.
Now i know it is hard to get a picture as to how this whole lifestyle was to live for a week, but im gonna try to paint you just that picture. On any normal day, we would wake up at around 7.30 for a quick breakfast and then head over to the beach for the 4 hour morning session. After that first session, we'd head for lunch and a couple hours break before heading back out for the afternoon session. Now after this one we'd head for the showers which was always a pain as the warm water was retrieved using solar panels, meaning that the warm water would most likely run out fairly fast. Followed by the showers came our large portioned sinners which was usually past, hamburgers, or sandwishes. Given that we did not overload on dinner or need an early sleep, most people went for the beach fire where we'd just hang out and listen to music and have a good time only to wake up just as early the next day for a continuance of the surfer saga ; )
So there you have it, that is what amazing things ive done this week, added with the swimming with the wild dolphines after one of our morning sessions and the 14,000ft skydive i did yesterday morning over byron bay!!!
Hope it was legendary enough, all the best

p.s heading to sydney tonight and then Fiji on tuesday, which means im back in sweden within 3 and a half weeeks! !!!!!!!!!!!

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